This is one of the easiest problems to fix with most Leister tools but how do you know if it’s the problem? The “plug and play” method by simply replacing the element can be dangerous as well as costly. There is a very simple method to testing a Leister heating element to be sure it is functioning properly.
1. Flat head or torx head screwdriver. The size will depend on which Leister tool you have.
2. Multimeter or other type of measuring device used to check resistance. Ω
Instructions for testing your heating element
- Turn power off to the tool and UNPLUG the tool from the power source.
- Remove screws (usually 4) from outer metal tube encasing the heating element.
- Gently pull the tube away from the tool. There is a cardboard looking tube that surrounds the heating element. This will come off with the metal tube or stay wrapper around the heating element
- Inspect the cardboard tube. If it is soft and pliable this will need replaced along with a defective element. In some cases this tube will actually fuse to the heating element, both will need replaced at this point.
- Pull the heating element straight back to remove it from the heat gun socket.
- Next, check the resistance between the pins.
-The Triac-S is equipped with auto-stop brushes, and they should be checked frequently. To replace these is much less expensive that replacing your motor. Changing brushes will extend the life capacity of your motor.
-The heat is controlled with both the photocell and circuit board. The photocell detects how hot your heating element will get by the level of brightness of the heating element. Therefore, if your element gets clogged with debris, it will keep heating up because it cannot gauge how hot your element is getting. Thus, the heating element will continue heating up until it actually gets so hot that it will no longer continue cleaning the debris from the filter as necessary.
-It is important to keep your air-flow constant, therefore keep your filter screen clean and free of debris to avoid blowing out your heating element.
-This previous task is most easily performed with compressed air. There cannot be any moisture in the compressed air, otherwise this will cause the element to fail as well.
-Ensure that you keep the tool free of debris, and it is properly maintained. The tool will last much longer if maintained, rather than bringing it to us after it has failed.
-The mica tube, which covers your element must be used and maintained. There must be no flaking. If flaking occurs, replace the mica tube immediately.
-Do not use more than 150 ft cord, due to the fact that this causes voltage drop, and thus your amperage increases. This will increase heat in your extension cord, causing a meltdown of your power cord.
-Ensure your power cord stays in good condition. This is a doubly-insulated tool, so there is no need for a ground wire.
-When getting your tool repaired, ensure you’re getting authentic Leister parts, not knock-off materials.
-The warranty for most parts other than the power cord and element is one year from the date of purchase. Heely-Brown charges a $25.00 service charge on the Triac-S, no matter what the problem appears to be.
-To get in touch with the Heely-Brown Repair Department, please call 1-800-241-2468.
Take your job to the next level. Utilizing the Twinny T and Comet USB allow you to do just that by taking information from the job site directly to your laptop computer or pc.
USB data is constantly being stored on its memory stick eliminating the need to hand-write information or shuffle paperwork back and forth. This new procedure has the ability to transform your work results into a mobile office for information processing.
Performing high profile jobs while utilizing Leister welding machines has never been more professional. These USB tools log all machine action including start/ stop, speed, temperature, and joining pressure. With no configuration required this technology validates itself with every job.
Because your job requires an efficient and reliable source of welding results, Leister Technologies' Twinny T USB and Comet USB have been developed to transform your project into a mobile office complete with the day's welding and testing results.
When welding plastics it is crucial you are working with plastics that are free of oxidation, oil and dust that can jeopardize the integrity of the weld. This can be achieved by scraping the top layer off the plastic area to be welded with a plastic scraping tool. You can also use soap and water to clean the surface however this may only remove some of the containments.
Different plastics have their own welding temperature and molecular make-up so it is also crucial you have the same plastics when welding together. Most newer plastic molds have the plastic ID stamped right on them but if not there are different tests that can be performed to figure out what type of plastic you are working with.
For example by simply putting a small sample of the plastic in water you can usually cut your possibilities in half. Polypropylene (PP), low density (LDPE) and high density (HDPE) polyethylene will float where polystyrene (PS) and polyvinylchloride (PVC) will sink when placed in water. You can then perform a burn test to find the exact type of plastic you have.
A burn test is a simple procedure but needs to be done carefully in a safe location. Hold the sample piece of plastic to a flame until the plastic ignites. Some plastics may not burn but after a period of seconds you can identify the color and smell of the plastic as well as whether it drips. Now, extinguish the flames and gently waft the smoke. You will need to identify the smell and color of the smoke produced. Compare these characteristics with the chart below for a tentative identification. It is necessary to perform 2 – 3 tests per sample to confirm your results. Good luck!